You
CAN Have Your Cats and Your Furniture Too
Kathie
Freeman
No one
wants to invest hundreds or even thousands of dollars in furnishings
only to see them ripped to shreds by an overzealous pet, however beloved.
To many people the obvious answer is to have their cats declawed,
but it this really a reasonable alternative?
Its proponents depict it as a simple and painless operation, but it
is neither simple or painless. Most people aren't aware that it's
not just the claws that are removed. Declawing involves the amputation
of the first joint of each toe, and as any amputee can tell you, the
pain persists for months if not years. The only difference is your
cat can't tell you it still hurts.
This doesn't mean you have to put up with shredded furniture and drapes,
or snagged carpets. I have four cats of my own, none of then declawed,
and my upholstery and curtains are intact and my rugs unsnagged. There
are a number of steps you can take to minimize or eliminate the damage.
1. Give them what they want.
Scratching is not just a means of sharpening claws, it's a vital form
of exercise that tones and strengthens the muscles. Even declawed
cats go through the motions. It's instinctive. Birds gotta swim, fish
gotta fly, cats gotta scratch. Whatever. So give them something suitable
to scratch on, preferably not one of those pint-sized carpet-covered
pet department abominations. That only confuses them.
If that's what you already have, at least pull off the carpeting and
wrap it with good quality jute or sisal rope, half-inch in diameter,
wound tightly and secured with glue. If you sew, you might try making
a slip cover you can easily remove and replace as necessary. Burlap
is good for this, but almost any fabric with a heavy weave or a textured
surface will work. My own cats are partial to upholstery velvet and
corduroy. Ideally the post should be at least two inches higher than
the cat can reach.
Many cats prefer a horizontal surface to scratch on, and take well
to a commercial scratching pad made from corrugated cardboard.
Whatever you decide to use, spray it lightly with catnip extract (not
synthetic - they WILL know the difference) and place it near your
cat's favorite scratching spot. Once he or she becomes accustomed
to the new surface, gradually move it to a more convenient location.
These materials tend to be messy, so choose a spot where you can easily
sweep or vacuum around it.
2. Use your good judgement when choosing fabrics and rugs.
Pass up all those lovely but delicate satin and damask weaves or the
aforementioned textured surfaces. These are cat magnets. Knits and
other stretchy fabrics are an open invitation to snags. Leather and
faux leathers are also major no-no's. Sheer panels at the windows?
Forget it!
Look for strong fabrics with a tight weave such as sailcloth or canvas.
Most denims hold up well, also. For curtains, go with something like
percale or chintz. Most of the curtains at my house are made from
bedsheets, and are not only attractive but virtually indestructible.
For carpeting, a medium or low plush is preferable to a berber or
a sculptured pile. Remember, minimum texture is the key.
As long as we're on the subject, think brown. That way when your cat
upchucks on it, and it will, it won't be such a disaster. If your
cat is still drawn to the furniture, a number of companies sell clear
plastic corner protectors that self-adhere to most fabrics.
3. Trim the claws.
It's not as difficult as it might seem, especially if you start them
as kittens. Use a specifically designed animal nail trimmer and start
out slow. Begin by just handling the paws, and practice extending
the claws without trying to trim. The cat will become accustomed to
being handled and will be less likely to react violently to the actual
trimming. After a few days of this, try trimming, just one or two
nails at a time, and only take off the very tips. If you still find
it troublesome, most professional groomers will do it for a minimal
fee.
4. Claw caps.
These are soft plastic covers that are glued onto the claws and last
for up to 4-6 weeks. I've never tried them myself, but many people
report good results.
Cats and people have shared living quarters for thousands of years,
and with a little forethought and cooperation we should be able to
maintain a harmonious relationship between ourselves, our pets, and
our furniture.
copyright
2005
Kathie Freeman is the author of Catwalk, a Feline Odyssey.
For more of her articles and short stories visit Kathie's Stories
and Tails at http://home.att.net/~kathiefreeman/
This article is free to use as long as the byline and this source
information is included.
©Copyrighted 2004-2007 The Blufish, Inc. All rights reserved.
